Having someone explain something to you that you obviously know is annoying. If man does it to a woman it called ‘mansplaining’.
Which is fine. I don’t think we need another word. When a Man does it to a man, it’s usually followed with something like ‘If I am having the problem, do you really think I need that explained?’ or maybe ‘duh!’ or maybe ‘shut up’.

If a person makes a statement, and you make a counter statement, like in a discussion, it’s not mansplaining. Sorry, it just isn’t. That’s what a discussion is. You present something, and people reply, possible with a counter argument.

Claiming some is mansplaining in that situation only undermines the comment when sone is actually mansplaining.

Even if you already know the counter argument, it’s still not mansplaining. That would require the person you are having the discussion with to be able to read you mind. So when you make a twitter comment, and someone points out a counter to your statement, the proper response is not “YOU win Mansplainer of the year”. “It’s I knew that already.” The person replying to you cannot read your mind, they can only know what you stated.

If I went to the youtube channel “See Jane Drill”(awesome channel, btw) and tried to explain to her how power tools work, that would be mansplaining.

If a computer programmer was have a frustrating problem and I explained to her how bubble sorts work, the would be mansplaining.

In both those examples I should be called out, but Try to remember most mansplaining isn’t intentional.

And when someone asks how what they said was mansplaining, then the onerous is on you to explain why. That’s the polite thing to do.

This doesn’t even get into that if you know it was wrong, isn’t in unethical of you to keep saying it?

Also, do we really need a gender specific insult for the word? Is that really going to advance polite discussion? Is it really better than a polite reminder? Or even ‘I don’t need then explained to me’?

Is it really less insulting than dismissing a woman’s point as ‘Bitchsplaining’*?

*Dear reader: Please don’t do or say that.

My weekend with Elite: Dangerous.

The most important thing to remember during this review is that, the game is visually stunning, and the combat physics are top notch, and it’s fun.

The end.
haha…. no. I mean, yes all that is true, but there is more.

There are 3 modes of play. Solo, Only with your group, and open. In this review (Siskel and Ebert rate my review: 2 thumbs who the hell is this guy.) I played in either solo, or group. So any description of hostile action I may write, will be from NPCs.

Elite: Dangerous is on steam for about 45 bucks. I have no problem with that price, and in fact would have no problem if it was 55 dollars. I like the purchase and then play model, however they seem to be trying to also charge extra if you want to paint your ship. I know it’s probably a tiny thing, but it annoys me to no end.

A tiny thing. (No Penis joke for you.)

It’s like Blizzard charging extra for a different skin tone on your character. I’d be fine with charging for specific patterns, like camo or chrome, but even for basic colors? That’s just tacky.

Enough of that, moving on.

The universe is fantastic, but some of the (fictional) engineers in game must be mad men. Really, a tiny slot ships barely fit through to dock? Ships coming in and going out using the ‘mail slot’?
That’s just a world thing, but I always think about it when docking.

So, in the world you have three ‘frames’ of travel. Normal, Supercruise, and Hyperdrive.

Normal is basically when you are docking or in combat.
Hyperdrive is when you are moving from system to system. Spawning into a new zone, really.

Super cruise is when you move at very fast speeds, between jumps. You can be forced out of supercruise. This is called Interdiction.


So some other ship wants your cargo, or your bounty, or whatevers. So they activate their device to interdicted you, and your screen shows a blue circle you try to keep alignment with. If you can’t keep it aligned you get popped out of supercruise and into normal space.
Then the jerk either demands your cargo(never happened to me, but it can in theory) or they just shoot you and try to make you explode because they are pirates.

This can be frustrating. So, so frustrating. When flying my hauler, I kept getting interdicted and blown up. I really had no chance against those guys. I was popped out of supercruise and blown up in about 5 seconds. During the session I ended up losing 240K of credits. I was not happy.

Not. Happy.

Fortunately I handled it well by ranting on twitter.cough.

They do use a mechanic that’s interesting. There is a buyback cost of your ship, so if (when) you get blown up you can buy the same ship outfitted the same way sans cargo. So never go below your buyback cost. IF you don’t have enough money you can buy back without some items. If you have even less money, you can get the starter ship for free. So that is pretty well thought through!

But when you get blown up, you start back at the station you started your run. That is a mechanic people grew tired up 15 years ago. MMOs have learned people are happier if you put them at the nearest ‘spawn’ point. No one wants to do the same series of jumps again. At least give the user the option of where along his last series of jumps they want to start.

You can play any different styles. from trade, to missions, to combat. All three are well executed.

There is a learning curve. The docs aren’t done very well, but there are a lot of really good videos. I suggest newbs watch a getting started video.

There is a lot you can do, and a lot of commands. Once you start ‘getting’ the game the commands make sense.

I highly recommend getting a joy stick and hotas. I am using X.FLight Thrustmaster Hotas.
I’m a thrustmaster, if you know what I mean.

I linked to Fry’s, becasue at this Time Amazon has them going for 80 dollars instead of the normal 50 dollars. I wonder if thats do toy Elite:Dangerous demand? Yes, there are better joysticks, but dropping 200-300 hundred dollar on myself 2 months before christmas would have consequences.

Serious. Consequences.

If you like space flight sims, then buy this game. The starting learning curve is a little steep, so do the training.

tl;dr: I took the time to write it, you can take the time to read it.

As a side note. When playing, sometimes I like to think the game was developed by aliens so we could fly their ships for them. Outsourcing their work so they can watch alien game of thrones.

My son got me to play ELite: Dangerous, and I think he may be regretting it. I kept interrupting him to help me figure things out.

Out of Steam

We kind of ran out of steam for that podcast. I blame you for not giving us enough praise. The reason I blame you is because otherwise it would be my fault, and that can’t be right ūüôā

So after a long rest, the Crit! team is taking on a new endeavor. A science Youtube Channel.
We have started on the first script, and I am please. Will update when it’s ready.

We're not Kitten you.

Ep.33 Westworld, Gaming tables, Superheros.

In this episode we try something new. Stating what we are going to talk about up front, then talking about it.

In true Crit! fashion, it goes horrible wrong right out of the gate.

Westworld IMDB

Westowrld Trailer

Ep. 32 Black Mirror, and game props

We discus using props in table top RPGs, we completely spoil a black mirror episode.

As a bonus, you get to hear Chibbs power through Garrett and James shenanigan’s

Technical difficulties

Here at Crit, there were some technical difficulties, so there haven’t been some episodes in a while.
Also, some episodes have been lost. Well, they’re hiding on a HD. I’ll get my forensic tools out and recover them when I can.

In the mean time, here is a special unnumbered episode of Crit.

EP 27: Simple card games, Politics, Godzilla

We discuss coop coupe coup, a game  of bluffing,  prebluffing , debluffing, bluff-bluffing.

We discuss Acquire, the board game.

How to fix the horrid state of the media? I may have gotten some dates wrong.

A moment of silence for Almost Human.
Discus Xmen and many other timely topics!

When talking about the Speed of light we are usually talking about a local inertial frame of reference. The universe is not a local inertial frame of reference.

Moving away at the speed of light

More on the SoL

EP: 26 Gene manipulation.

Scientist create Mice who don’t learn from fear, ¬†Chibby Praises Gene Wolfe’s work. What makes a monster in a game?

Gene Wolfe: Book of the New Sun


Episode 25B Painting cont., Almost Human

Thanks Mike for showing us these paining techniques.

Here is a list of what we did.

1. I cleaned off the Bones with some water and an old toothbrush.
2. Using elmers white glue, glued the minis to square bases and covered them in ground walnut shells (for reptile terrariums), almost sand like. This will be our ground cover at the feet of the mini. I covered the base in the glue using an old brush then sprinkled the mixture over the base. I let it dry for a moment then tapped the excess off, back into the container.
3. I primed them with an airbrush and Vallejo surface primer. I sprayed them black first, then sprayed them at a 35 degree angle from above with whitepaint. This gives the impression of light hitting the mini and is called Zenithal Priming. You can use it to better see the details of the mini, where the light would fall, etc.
4. Do not use canned primers on Bones. It will not work well. They react to the solvent (I think) and it never dries, staying very tacky. Use brush on or airbrush. Or none, though I haven’t tried it. Supposedly that works.
1. We started off with P3 Cryx Bane Highlight, a greenish color. Since we will be drybrushing highlights, we are coating the mini with a darker color first.
2. This coat is thin so it spreads nicely but not so thin it just runs everywhere. In some spots we had to let it dry a bit and go for a second coat to get it nice and even.
3. We used a brown-green color to give a little more depth and life to the mini. We could just start out with a dark cream but the green will make it look more aged and decayed.
1. We follow the previous step with a heavy drybrush of P3 Thrall Flesh. This is a creamy white with a green tint to it.
2. To drybrush we use a little thicker paint and an old wide brush. We flick the brush across the surface of a paper towel quickly, removing most of thepaint. You can then test on your finger, using the same quick dusting motion. If the paint stays on the top of wrinkles without seeping into the cracks, you are good to go.
3. We use the same technique on the mini, dusty all sides of the bones. This process causes the paint to only stick to the raised areas, really causing them to pop out. All the details suddenly come to life.
4. We follow this drybrush with P3 Jack Bone, a soft creamy off white. We use the same process, only this time we only hit the very tops of the mini, where the light would naturally hit a surface. This is our first true highlight and gives the impression of light falling across the figure.
1. Using a sepia wash (a very thin mixture of sepia ink, matte medium, water and flow aid) for shading, we brush the entire skeleton, letting the thin wash seep into the crevices, darkening them while staining the raised surfaces.
2. We’re careful not to let it pool on the flat areas or we might end up with tide pools of color – little rings like when your car gets water spots.
3. We then add a little black wash to the sepia wash, darkening it. We then just dab this into the eye sockets, the bottoms of the large bones and in the corners of crevices and ribs. This is our final shade, only in the places where we want to simulate the darkest shadows.
We then painted the shield and weapons with Vallejo Model Air Gun Metal. Its a very smooth flowing metallic silver with smooth coverage.
Later we washed the weapons in Black Wash, mostly to dull the metals a bit and to create a nice dark shadow around the edges of the shields and under the straps.
Using the same techniques as the skeleton, we paint the entire base in a muddy dark P3 Umbral Brown. We then dry brushed it with P3 Idrian Flesh (a ruddy brown) and a final highlight mix of P3 Idrian Flesh and P3 Jack Bone.
We then added a bit of static grass by dabbing a little elmers (or wood glue) on the base where ever we think we might want the grass. Then we sprinkle the grass over the base and tap off the excess. For a touch of variety we also glued on a few Highland Tufts from Army Painter.
Shields & Weathering
We painted the shields P3 Khador Base, a deep dull red. Using a tiny bit of foam (torn from a blister pack), we dabbed it into dark brown paint and dabbed most of it off onto a paper towel, similar to drybrushing. We then dab it against the shield leaving a chipped paint effect. Then with a smaller brush we painted long lines, simulating scratches on the surface.
Using the same red we used on the shields we filled in the eye sockets. We followed this up by very, very carefully placing a dot of bright orange paintin the center, giving our skeleton glowing red eyes.
Vallejo Primers
P3 Paints
Vallejo Model Air – VMA
Army¬†Painter¬†Highland Tufts –¬†
Also available on Amazon.