Thanks Mike for showing us these paining techniques.
Here is a list of what we did.
1. I cleaned off the Bones with some water and an old toothbrush.
2. Using elmers white glue, glued the minis to square bases and covered them in ground walnut shells (for reptile terrariums), almost sand like. This will be our ground cover at the feet of the mini. I covered the base in the glue using an old brush then sprinkled the mixture over the base. I let it dry for a moment then tapped the excess off, back into the container.
3. I primed them with an airbrush and Vallejo surface primer. I sprayed them black first, then sprayed them at a 35 degree angle from above with whitepaint. This gives the impression of light hitting the mini and is called Zenithal Priming. You can use it to better see the details of the mini, where the light would fall, etc.
4. Do not use canned primers on Bones. It will not work well. They react to the solvent (I think) and it never dries, staying very tacky. Use brush on or airbrush. Or none, though I haven’t tried it. Supposedly that works.
1. We started off with P3 Cryx Bane Highlight, a greenish color. Since we will be drybrushing highlights, we are coating the mini with a darker color first.
2. This coat is thin so it spreads nicely but not so thin it just runs everywhere. In some spots we had to let it dry a bit and go for a second coat to get it nice and even.
3. We used a brown-green color to give a little more depth and life to the mini. We could just start out with a dark cream but the green will make it look more aged and decayed.
1. We follow the previous step with a heavy drybrush of P3 Thrall Flesh. This is a creamy white with a green tint to it.
2. To drybrush we use a little thicker paint and an old wide brush. We flick the brush across the surface of a paper towel quickly, removing most of thepaint. You can then test on your finger, using the same quick dusting motion. If the paint stays on the top of wrinkles without seeping into the cracks, you are good to go.
3. We use the same technique on the mini, dusty all sides of the bones. This process causes the paint to only stick to the raised areas, really causing them to pop out. All the details suddenly come to life.
4. We follow this drybrush with P3 Jack Bone, a soft creamy off white. We use the same process, only this time we only hit the very tops of the mini, where the light would naturally hit a surface. This is our first true highlight and gives the impression of light falling across the figure.
1. Using a sepia wash (a very thin mixture of sepia ink, matte medium, water and flow aid) for shading, we brush the entire skeleton, letting the thin wash seep into the crevices, darkening them while staining the raised surfaces.
2. We’re careful not to let it pool on the flat areas or we might end up with tide pools of color – little rings like when your car gets water spots.
3. We then add a little black wash to the sepia wash, darkening it. We then just dab this into the eye sockets, the bottoms of the large bones and in the corners of crevices and ribs. This is our final shade, only in the places where we want to simulate the darkest shadows.
We then painted the shield and weapons with Vallejo Model Air Gun Metal. Its a very smooth flowing metallic silver with smooth coverage.
Later we washed the weapons in Black Wash, mostly to dull the metals a bit and to create a nice dark shadow around the edges of the shields and under the straps.
Using the same techniques as the skeleton, we paint the entire base in a muddy dark P3 Umbral Brown. We then dry brushed it with P3 Idrian Flesh (a ruddy brown) and a final highlight mix of P3 Idrian Flesh and P3 Jack Bone.
We then added a bit of static grass by dabbing a little elmers (or wood glue) on the base where ever we think we might want the grass. Then we sprinkle the grass over the base and tap off the excess. For a touch of variety we also glued on a few Highland Tufts from Army Painter.
Shields & Weathering
We painted the shields P3 Khador Base, a deep dull red. Using a tiny bit of foam (torn from a blister pack), we dabbed it into dark brown paint and dabbed most of it off onto a paper towel, similar to drybrushing. We then dab it against the shield leaving a chipped paint effect. Then with a smaller brush we painted long lines, simulating scratches on the surface.
Using the same red we used on the shields we filled in the eye sockets. We followed this up by very, very carefully placing a dot of bright orange paintin the center, giving our skeleton glowing red eyes.
Reaper Bones Skeletons – http://www.reapermini.com/
Vallejo Model Air – VMA
Army Painter Highland Tufts – http://shop.thearmypainter.
Also available on Amazon.